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Formula One (1983)            

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Details (Sinclair ZX Spectrum) Supported platforms Artwork and Media
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Other Files:
G.B. Munday, B.P. Wheelhouse
Audio cassette
UK (£7.95)
Poster, Competition Entry
Also appeared on CRL's compilation, Burning Rubber, which also included Endurance and Juggernaut.
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Amstrad CPC
Sinclair ZX Spectrum

A Sinclair User Classic

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Your Reviews

Roger ()   27th May 2021 08:02
This is a Formula One team management simulation, possibly the first of such a game! You take your team through the 1985 Grand Prix season consisting of 16 races across the globe.

On novice level it is best to start the season with only one driver and concentrate your money on the car. Once you have built up a reasonable amount of money buy the second driver. Using this technique, I managed to get both cars 99 per cent efficient by the tenth race.

After the game loads, use POKE 48129,246 and start game with $64,000,000.

BUY everything for $1: POKE 56335,175: POKE 56507,195

Get out of Pit-Stop immediately: POKE 44510,201 - it will still ask you for your tyre choice and show the pits, but instantly return to the race after that.

Time for Pit-Stops is recorded as zero: POKE 44162,175: POKE 44182,175
This is only good for the race you are in - you need to resubmit the pokes in each race!

On Novice level (5 of 5), you start with 918,000.
The top drivers at this level cost £186,000, then £154,000, then £122,000 and finally £90,000.

If you move up to Amateur level, the drivers range from £250,000 down to £90,000.

When the bar is in the red, you have no choice but to 'Buy' a new engine or chassis. You don't need to have 'crew' at all - it simply governs how fast your pit crew move around, so if you use the POKE above don't bother investing in crew at all.

Buy -> £260K maxes out the efficiency bar. This is the same cost regardless of difficulty level (you don't pay more money to get 100% engine or 100% chassis, etc at the higher difficulty levels - it's always £260,000.

Buy and Improve don't get the same value for your spend. For example, if you buy a new engine and spend £260K on it, you will get an engine that hits 100% efficiency.
But if you buy a new engine and spend £100K (the minimum when buying), and then 'Improve' by another £160K, you will get an engine that's only about 90%. You need to spend an extra £30K to get it up to 100%, so a total of £290K.

The same scale works for the chassis ("Car") as it does for the engine ("Power"), so buying a new chassis and spending £260K on it gets you to 100% efficiency.

Weather and Tyres
Before the start of each race you are given the current and forecast weather conditions as well as historical data on the track.
During the race, the sky colour also changes to reflect the weather (grey if it's constant drizzle or driving rain, darker blue if it's broken, cloudy sky, light blue if it's dry with clear skies. The game border shows the team colour who are in 1st place.

Your tyre choices are:
1 Slicks - Soft - will do the fewest laps before needing to be replaced, but are the stickiest in dry conditions.
2 Slicks - Medium
3 Slicks - Hard - will last the longest
4 Intermediates - for changable weather
5 Rain tyres - for rain!

Mid-Race Events
High Severity
Retired - blown engine
Retired - turbo failure
Retired - gearbox failure
Retired - ignition malfunction
Retired - stalled after spin
Crashed - driver unhurt

Middle Severity
Gearbox problems - Pit stop due
Engine sick - coming into pits
Spun after shunt - Pit stop due
Spun: chassis damage - Stop due
Puncture - Pit stop required

Low Severity
Spun and lost time - no damage

Track report - heavy rain and puddles on track
Lap record by

At the end of every race, you are shown your finances:
1) Start and Prize Money - For each car you have that starts the race, you will receive £75,000. The prize money depends on where you finished. 1st place on Novice level earns you £250,000.
2) Sponsorship Money - This I believe is somewhat random and usually varies from £170K up to £830K.
3) Costs - Also seems to be random, ranging from around £27K up to £85K.

End of Season
One thing to bear in mind is that after the last race of the season, you can choose to move up a difficulty level. You can also save the game at this point - this I recommend, as you start the season with your current balance PLUS the takings from that last race - don't make the same mistake I did: I thought I only had about £900K to start Season 2 with, so bought Lauda again (this time costing me £250K though as we're now in Amateur level not Novice), and thought I wouldn't have enough to get a top-line 2nd driver, so opted for Rosberg for £90K which I thought would give me sufficient funds to run 2 cars from Race #1 in the second season. I had not factored in the additional start and prize money and sponsorship income from the final race of the prior season, so in fact after I finally got to configuring my cars, my current balance was up at 1,384,000 - arrghh, so I could have bought a really good 2nd driver after all!!
If you click on your second driver again to change him, you will have lost that much money you previously bought him for, so watch out!

All in all, a pretty decent management game with basic typical decisions a formula one team would need to make. If like me you get bored of doing the pitstops, just use the POKE at the top of this review.

(Anonymous) (Your Spectrum 15)   27th Dec 2008 04:16
(Anonymous) (BHLEGEND.COM)   16th Dec 2008 08:41
(Anonymous) (BHLEGEND.COM)   16th Dec 2008 08:40

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This title was first added on 18th January 2009
This title was most recently updated on 27th December 2008

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